Construction in Detail -The Dress Shirt

This guest post is from Grant Harris, Owner & Chief Style Consultant at Image Granted, LLC.

A recent Wall Street Journal article discussed the finer details of a quality handmade dress shirt. Today we would like to give our readers a primer on the man's dress shirt from collar to tail and in between. The dress shirt is a staple of man's wardrobe. He should have several options with various collar and cuff combinations, colors, and patterns. No matter how different each shirt, they should all be made of the same quality components and constructed in manner that will last longer than you and your ex-girlfriend.

1. Collar - The most important and visible piece of the shirt. It frames the face and should enhance the man's facial structure. Whether a straight, spread, club, or button-down collar it should be made in single-needle stitching as close to the edge of the collar as possible. One can debate over fused or unfused collar construction but we believe it depends on the man and his personality first and foremost, and his environment second. It should stand high out of a jacket or sweater and should always be clean and pressed.

Button Down Collar w/ 2 Button Barrel Cuff

2. Yoke - The piece of material found across the upper back and shoulder of the shirt. The single yoke is constructed of one piece of fabric while a split yoke is joined in the center with two pieces of fabric. A split yoke is often the best option is it provides more shoulder and back room for the man and will mold to his body over time. A split yoke pattern should join together in symmetry at the seams and the center.

Split Yoke

3. Placket - The piece of fabric which the button holes are sewn into. It should also be constructed in single-needle stitching and should not be overlooked in terms of quality. Although the buttons of the placket are mostly hidden with a tie they can also be hidden under a fold of fabric giving the shirt a cleaner look. However, this look is a modern look and may be frowned upon in classic environments. The placket button holes are hand sewn in hand end shirtings.

4. Cuff - The second most important part of the shit following the collar. Cuffs come in three major styles including the one or two button barrel and the French or "turn back" cuff. One can combine the two to create the James Bond cuff but this is only found in custom shirting. Barrel cuffs are round and resemble a barrel for the wrist. Cuffs should be made of two pieces of cloth sewn together with an interlining between for strength and resiliency. One button cuffs offer a sleek and modern alternative to the classic two buttons. The French cuff is recognized by turning an elongated cuff back onto itself and then being fastened with cuff links. This is the ultimate in high class style and sophistication.

French Cuff

5. Tail - The tail of a dress shirt is constructed in a curved line and contrary to the throngs of men who wear unkempt dress shirts to the club or house parties it should always be tucked in.  Flat bottomed collared shirts and T- shirts are for casual wear and are the only shirts meant to be worn untucked. The tail should be long enough not to come out of the pants during regular movement. A sign of a high quality shirt is the gusset found at the joining of the seams of the tail. This extra piece of cloth gives the shirt more strength and prevents tearing and is also called a "butterfly gusset" for the resemblance to the insect.

Buy a well-made dress shirt.

Grant Harris is Owner & Chief Style Consultant at Image Granted, LLC, a Washington, DC based Image Consulting company dedicated to solving the complex image, style & fashion issues of today's professional man.

The Speedo makes a comeback???

 

Sales are on the rise. So, what I want to know is...

Guys, would you sport a Speedo? 

Ladies, what do you think?

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1284924/A-brief-moment-style-Sales-Speedo-style-trunks-soar-warm-weather.html?ito=feeds-newsxml

How to present to land that first date...

Like it or not guys, appearance does play a factor in landing that first date. 

Now when I say appearance, this is not to be confused with how good looking or how many visable abdominal muscles you have. It's all about how well you present and put yourself together that counts. No matter how physically attractive you are (or are not), or how in shape you are (or are not), every guy can ensure he is well groomed and dressed. 

Remember, asking someone on a first date is like a first interview. First impressions count and are very hard to undo, so you need to make sure you make a good one.

So, while there is no need to look like you stepped out of a GQ magazine or are decked out head to toe in "trends" (ie. a bedazzled Ed Hardy shirt, skinny distressed jeans, and pointy toed shoes...ICK!), it doesn't hurt to step it up a notch. 

Trade in the old t-shirt for a more stylish one (topped with a sweater or jacket in an eye catching colour), and ditch the scuffed up running shoes for a nice polished pair of shoes...and that's it! 

Seriously guys, a little effort in the wardrobe department goes a long way...and will pay off big time with the ladies!

Top Gun Cool...with a twist

According to GQ magazine, it is one of the hottest accessories for the stylish male this year...Plastic Aviator sunglasses. An update on the wire rimmed version that has been around for some time now, the plastic version is a bit chunkier and oh so cool!

Trend expert lists essentials for men’s everyday dressing

This is an excerpt from a great article by Rod Hagwood...

What every guys needs in his wardrobe for the weekend, according to trend expert Tom Julian and Nordstrom.

Here is the new list of essentials:

Knit tops – especially in a cotton slub (slubs are super-soft textured nubby yarns).
Check shirts – gingham, mini-check, plaid
Camp shirt – has pockets for your cell phone and can be worn alone or over a tank top or T-shirt
Novelty shirt – vivid colors, contrasting collars and/or cuffs, top stitching, double-spaced buttons on the placket, sometimes leather tabs for French cuffs a la Bogosse or Robert Graham.
Unlined jacket – turn it inside out and make sure the seams are finished.
Five-pocket jeans – dark denim (acid wash is for teens and tweens)
Outerwear – a zip-front blouson jacket in nylon; keep the design clean and simple (no tricked up straps and buckles).
Shoes – drivers and canvas sneakers

For more fashion features from Hagwood, check him out at... http://blogs.sun-sentinel.com/features_fashion/

For guys...The long and short of the Short

Some guys love them, some don't. But for the former, the time of year is fast approaching when you can pull out those shorts and let your legs feel the sun again. Just remember guys...shorts are great for leisurely activities (like exercising, doing yardwork, or even casual weekend wear). And though it may be H-O-T outside, please remember, they are NOT appropropriate for the workplace or a wedding...no matter how "dressy" you think they are or how expensive they were.

Mens Pants 101

Unless you want to be arrested (or you want to wear a skirt), for guys, pants are a non negotiable. And in my opinion...the item that can really make or break a guys look. Too tight, too baggy, too short, or too long...the list of mistakes is endless. Here, some Practical Fashionista's tips for making sure you stay in the "Do" category as opposed to the "Don't".

 

Denim - When it comes to jeans, choose a cut that is complimentary to your body type. Guys, you may have thought this was a rule only for women, but it applies to you too. Boot cut or straight cut is the most universally flattering, but if your "style' is a bit more edgy (and your body can handle it), you can do a slim cut as well. As for tapered jeans, these don't work for ANYONE!

Khakis - What I call the lazy mans pant (especially when always paired with a blue shirt...URGH!), I would ban these if I could. But I know some of you would still find them in some sort of obscure chinos black market, so, here are some tips if you must wear them. Keep them simple, which means no cargo styles (especially if you are over 18 years old and not in the army). Second, keep them for casual weekend wear only. They are not meant for business meetings or first dates.

Slacks - Pay attention to your personal style, but most importantly, FIT is key! Not too baggy (droopy crotch anyone?!) and not too tight (too much information). So, somewhere in between is best...where they are close-ish to your "bits and part" and derriere, but by no means, tight. Got it?! Okay, that was kind of awkward but I think you got my point...

Maximizing your Shirt & Tie collection

To get the most out of any wardrobe, the key is to have pieces that can all be used with one another. And when you shop in the future and consider buying a new item, to first assess whether or not you have at least 3 items in your current wardrobe your new item can "become friends with". Here's how to do that with your shirts and ties.

- At all times, make sure your ties are darker than your shirts...this will make things easier as you go along.
- Keep everything within the same colour groupings and make sure those grouping go with one another. For example, for guys who aren't afraid of colur, you may want to always go with greys, baby blues, light greens, and soft purples. For the more conservative guy, always stick to whites, navy blues, reds, and dark greens. This way, everything will always mix and match with one another.

Weekend Date Wear

For most of the 9-5er's out there, dressing for work is the easy part. This is due primarily to the fact that there is someone (HR) telling you what is acceptable, so you just follow the rules. But being in this type of fashion fog five days a week can sometimes cause confusion when it comes to knowing how to dress on your time off. Especially for a date! Don't worry guys, I've got you covered...

1) Take the "dress" out of dress pants by wearing your works pants with a cool pair of sneakers. We're not talking the ones you would work out in, something a bit more high end. Throw on a nice fitted sweater or t-shirt, and top it with a casual, but tailored jacket (suede, leather, maybe cuorduroy) or (nice) hoodie, and you are good to go.

2) If you really want to do jeans, just dress up everything else a bit. For the shoes, maybe some desert boots or cool slip on oxfords. Throw on a button down shirt and leave it untucked (but ironed please) and top it with a funky argyle vest or sweater, and you'll be going out on date #2 in no time (well, that's if you want I guess...HA HA).

Office Awesome-ness

Guys, want to take your boring office attire up a notch? Here are some tips...

1) Forget the boring black and navy, go for a grey suit. Whether light, medium, or dark, there is a grey that will suit every complexion. Not only does a grey suit looks a bit more fashion forward than its black and blue counterparts, but is so versatile that it looks awesome with any colour! For fun and for spring, think purples, pinks, maybe even lime green!

2) Don't be afraid to mix patterns. As long as they are in the same colour tones...it will be okay. For example, pairing your light blue striped button down with a paisley tie with navy, grey, and light blue in it. SMASHING!

3) Show some personality. Just because you have to wear a suit to work doesn't mean you can't let your style personality show. Do it with a cool statement watch, your choice of footwear, or a funky tie. All of these items add visual interest to an outfit and will help you get noticed...in a good way!

Male Style Mishaps

This "Manly Monday" post is dedicated to all of the women out there who cringe at the following male fashion fumbles but feel too bad pointing them out to their men. Here, the Practical Fashionista's top three. Guys, listen up...

1) The cheap suit - Guys, it's time to ditch the boxy, dated, drab looking polyester suit. Even if you don't wear one to work, you need one (weddings, funerals, job interviews). So, invest in the best quality you can afford, and please make sure you are professionally fitted for it.

2) Baggy, light wash, tapered jeans - Please get rid of them! For more details, just refer to last weeks post about Dad Style...the rules apply to ALL men.

3) Man jewellery - It's definitely "a look", but one that doesn't really work for any guy unless he is a rock star. So, put away the flashy rings and necklaces. Show your fashion sense by going for a funky statement watch instead.

4) Overly Metro Sexual - Personally speaking, this is my most cringe worthy one. Yes, we women like our men to be clean and well groomed (clean and clipped fingernails, toenails, facial hair, and hair). But seriously, the shiny glossed nails, the too tight trendy t-shirt, skinny jeans, pointed shoes, and man purse are just a bit much. Keep yourself nicely groomed, iron your shirt, get a nice pair of jeans and quality pair of shoes and we like-y!