Construction in Detail -The Dress Shirt

This guest post is from Grant Harris, Owner & Chief Style Consultant at Image Granted, LLC.

A recent Wall Street Journal article discussed the finer details of a quality handmade dress shirt. Today we would like to give our readers a primer on the man's dress shirt from collar to tail and in between. The dress shirt is a staple of man's wardrobe. He should have several options with various collar and cuff combinations, colors, and patterns. No matter how different each shirt, they should all be made of the same quality components and constructed in manner that will last longer than you and your ex-girlfriend.

1. Collar - The most important and visible piece of the shirt. It frames the face and should enhance the man's facial structure. Whether a straight, spread, club, or button-down collar it should be made in single-needle stitching as close to the edge of the collar as possible. One can debate over fused or unfused collar construction but we believe it depends on the man and his personality first and foremost, and his environment second. It should stand high out of a jacket or sweater and should always be clean and pressed.

Button Down Collar w/ 2 Button Barrel Cuff

2. Yoke - The piece of material found across the upper back and shoulder of the shirt. The single yoke is constructed of one piece of fabric while a split yoke is joined in the center with two pieces of fabric. A split yoke is often the best option is it provides more shoulder and back room for the man and will mold to his body over time. A split yoke pattern should join together in symmetry at the seams and the center.

Split Yoke

3. Placket - The piece of fabric which the button holes are sewn into. It should also be constructed in single-needle stitching and should not be overlooked in terms of quality. Although the buttons of the placket are mostly hidden with a tie they can also be hidden under a fold of fabric giving the shirt a cleaner look. However, this look is a modern look and may be frowned upon in classic environments. The placket button holes are hand sewn in hand end shirtings.

4. Cuff - The second most important part of the shit following the collar. Cuffs come in three major styles including the one or two button barrel and the French or "turn back" cuff. One can combine the two to create the James Bond cuff but this is only found in custom shirting. Barrel cuffs are round and resemble a barrel for the wrist. Cuffs should be made of two pieces of cloth sewn together with an interlining between for strength and resiliency. One button cuffs offer a sleek and modern alternative to the classic two buttons. The French cuff is recognized by turning an elongated cuff back onto itself and then being fastened with cuff links. This is the ultimate in high class style and sophistication.

French Cuff

5. Tail - The tail of a dress shirt is constructed in a curved line and contrary to the throngs of men who wear unkempt dress shirts to the club or house parties it should always be tucked in.  Flat bottomed collared shirts and T- shirts are for casual wear and are the only shirts meant to be worn untucked. The tail should be long enough not to come out of the pants during regular movement. A sign of a high quality shirt is the gusset found at the joining of the seams of the tail. This extra piece of cloth gives the shirt more strength and prevents tearing and is also called a "butterfly gusset" for the resemblance to the insect.

Buy a well-made dress shirt.

Grant Harris is Owner & Chief Style Consultant at Image Granted, LLC, a Washington, DC based Image Consulting company dedicated to solving the complex image, style & fashion issues of today's professional man.

Mens Summer 2010 Trends

Great article...Summer 2010 Accessories for Men. Though personally, I am not a fan of the necklace or the tote. What do you like/dislike?

http://www.debonairmag.com/mens-fashion-trendsaccessoriessummer-2010

Body Slimmers for Dudes?

So, us women all know about Spanx...but what about Manx? Manx is the male version of the women's body shapewear, used to slim unwanted bulges. Check it out below...I'd love to hear your comments!

http://www.blackbookmag.com/article/men-love-manx/19069

How to present to land that first date...

Like it or not guys, appearance does play a factor in landing that first date. 

Now when I say appearance, this is not to be confused with how good looking or how many visable abdominal muscles you have. It's all about how well you present and put yourself together that counts. No matter how physically attractive you are (or are not), or how in shape you are (or are not), every guy can ensure he is well groomed and dressed. 

Remember, asking someone on a first date is like a first interview. First impressions count and are very hard to undo, so you need to make sure you make a good one.

So, while there is no need to look like you stepped out of a GQ magazine or are decked out head to toe in "trends" (ie. a bedazzled Ed Hardy shirt, skinny distressed jeans, and pointy toed shoes...ICK!), it doesn't hurt to step it up a notch. 

Trade in the old t-shirt for a more stylish one (topped with a sweater or jacket in an eye catching colour), and ditch the scuffed up running shoes for a nice polished pair of shoes...and that's it! 

Seriously guys, a little effort in the wardrobe department goes a long way...and will pay off big time with the ladies!

Top Gun Cool...with a twist

According to GQ magazine, it is one of the hottest accessories for the stylish male this year...Plastic Aviator sunglasses. An update on the wire rimmed version that has been around for some time now, the plastic version is a bit chunkier and oh so cool!

Trend expert lists essentials for men’s everyday dressing

This is an excerpt from a great article by Rod Hagwood...

What every guys needs in his wardrobe for the weekend, according to trend expert Tom Julian and Nordstrom.

Here is the new list of essentials:

Knit tops – especially in a cotton slub (slubs are super-soft textured nubby yarns).
Check shirts – gingham, mini-check, plaid
Camp shirt – has pockets for your cell phone and can be worn alone or over a tank top or T-shirt
Novelty shirt – vivid colors, contrasting collars and/or cuffs, top stitching, double-spaced buttons on the placket, sometimes leather tabs for French cuffs a la Bogosse or Robert Graham.
Unlined jacket – turn it inside out and make sure the seams are finished.
Five-pocket jeans – dark denim (acid wash is for teens and tweens)
Outerwear – a zip-front blouson jacket in nylon; keep the design clean and simple (no tricked up straps and buckles).
Shoes – drivers and canvas sneakers

For more fashion features from Hagwood, check him out at... http://blogs.sun-sentinel.com/features_fashion/

Urban Cowboy Style

From the athletic jock to the metro sexual...just like women, guys have their own unique style personalities. Today, some tips on how to do the urban cowboy look in a modern way.

1) Ditch the flannel shirt. For a more fashionable look, go for a vintage looking Western style button down shirt. Use your shirt as your statement piece and get one with details like pearl buttons or some embroidered details.


2) When it comes to your jeans, a distressed and/or faded style is best. It just ups the "cool" factor of your look, without making it look like you are trying to hard. Also, make sure they are not too tight or you'll risk looking "dated". You want a nice boot cut and somewhat fitted, but never tight! For dressier occasions, go for a darker wash.

3) For some extra fashion flair, a cool belt buckle will do the trick. Think chunky silver or if you're really daring (and it works with the rest or your outfit), turquoise.

4) And lastly, but most importantly, you can't be an Urban Cowboy without the cowboy boots. Some may say you should get creative with snakeskin or two toned boots, but I say the when it comes to the footwear, the simpler the better. A classic brown, black, or even grey pair will always look the best, and provide more versatilty within your wardrobe. YEE HAW!

For guys...The long and short of the Short

Some guys love them, some don't. But for the former, the time of year is fast approaching when you can pull out those shorts and let your legs feel the sun again. Just remember guys...shorts are great for leisurely activities (like exercising, doing yardwork, or even casual weekend wear). And though it may be H-O-T outside, please remember, they are NOT appropropriate for the workplace or a wedding...no matter how "dressy" you think they are or how expensive they were.

Mens Pants 101

Unless you want to be arrested (or you want to wear a skirt), for guys, pants are a non negotiable. And in my opinion...the item that can really make or break a guys look. Too tight, too baggy, too short, or too long...the list of mistakes is endless. Here, some Practical Fashionista's tips for making sure you stay in the "Do" category as opposed to the "Don't".

 

Denim - When it comes to jeans, choose a cut that is complimentary to your body type. Guys, you may have thought this was a rule only for women, but it applies to you too. Boot cut or straight cut is the most universally flattering, but if your "style' is a bit more edgy (and your body can handle it), you can do a slim cut as well. As for tapered jeans, these don't work for ANYONE!

Khakis - What I call the lazy mans pant (especially when always paired with a blue shirt...URGH!), I would ban these if I could. But I know some of you would still find them in some sort of obscure chinos black market, so, here are some tips if you must wear them. Keep them simple, which means no cargo styles (especially if you are over 18 years old and not in the army). Second, keep them for casual weekend wear only. They are not meant for business meetings or first dates.

Slacks - Pay attention to your personal style, but most importantly, FIT is key! Not too baggy (droopy crotch anyone?!) and not too tight (too much information). So, somewhere in between is best...where they are close-ish to your "bits and part" and derriere, but by no means, tight. Got it?! Okay, that was kind of awkward but I think you got my point...

Maximizing your Shirt & Tie collection

To get the most out of any wardrobe, the key is to have pieces that can all be used with one another. And when you shop in the future and consider buying a new item, to first assess whether or not you have at least 3 items in your current wardrobe your new item can "become friends with". Here's how to do that with your shirts and ties.

- At all times, make sure your ties are darker than your shirts...this will make things easier as you go along.
- Keep everything within the same colour groupings and make sure those grouping go with one another. For example, for guys who aren't afraid of colur, you may want to always go with greys, baby blues, light greens, and soft purples. For the more conservative guy, always stick to whites, navy blues, reds, and dark greens. This way, everything will always mix and match with one another.

Weekend Date Wear

For most of the 9-5er's out there, dressing for work is the easy part. This is due primarily to the fact that there is someone (HR) telling you what is acceptable, so you just follow the rules. But being in this type of fashion fog five days a week can sometimes cause confusion when it comes to knowing how to dress on your time off. Especially for a date! Don't worry guys, I've got you covered...

1) Take the "dress" out of dress pants by wearing your works pants with a cool pair of sneakers. We're not talking the ones you would work out in, something a bit more high end. Throw on a nice fitted sweater or t-shirt, and top it with a casual, but tailored jacket (suede, leather, maybe cuorduroy) or (nice) hoodie, and you are good to go.

2) If you really want to do jeans, just dress up everything else a bit. For the shoes, maybe some desert boots or cool slip on oxfords. Throw on a button down shirt and leave it untucked (but ironed please) and top it with a funky argyle vest or sweater, and you'll be going out on date #2 in no time (well, that's if you want I guess...HA HA).

Office Awesome-ness

Guys, want to take your boring office attire up a notch? Here are some tips...

1) Forget the boring black and navy, go for a grey suit. Whether light, medium, or dark, there is a grey that will suit every complexion. Not only does a grey suit looks a bit more fashion forward than its black and blue counterparts, but is so versatile that it looks awesome with any colour! For fun and for spring, think purples, pinks, maybe even lime green!

2) Don't be afraid to mix patterns. As long as they are in the same colour tones...it will be okay. For example, pairing your light blue striped button down with a paisley tie with navy, grey, and light blue in it. SMASHING!

3) Show some personality. Just because you have to wear a suit to work doesn't mean you can't let your style personality show. Do it with a cool statement watch, your choice of footwear, or a funky tie. All of these items add visual interest to an outfit and will help you get noticed...in a good way!

Male Style Mishaps

This "Manly Monday" post is dedicated to all of the women out there who cringe at the following male fashion fumbles but feel too bad pointing them out to their men. Here, the Practical Fashionista's top three. Guys, listen up...

1) The cheap suit - Guys, it's time to ditch the boxy, dated, drab looking polyester suit. Even if you don't wear one to work, you need one (weddings, funerals, job interviews). So, invest in the best quality you can afford, and please make sure you are professionally fitted for it.

2) Baggy, light wash, tapered jeans - Please get rid of them! For more details, just refer to last weeks post about Dad Style...the rules apply to ALL men.

3) Man jewellery - It's definitely "a look", but one that doesn't really work for any guy unless he is a rock star. So, put away the flashy rings and necklaces. Show your fashion sense by going for a funky statement watch instead.

4) Overly Metro Sexual - Personally speaking, this is my most cringe worthy one. Yes, we women like our men to be clean and well groomed (clean and clipped fingernails, toenails, facial hair, and hair). But seriously, the shiny glossed nails, the too tight trendy t-shirt, skinny jeans, pointed shoes, and man purse are just a bit much. Keep yourself nicely groomed, iron your shirt, get a nice pair of jeans and quality pair of shoes and we like-y!

Dad Style

Okay so we all know about Mom jeans. but what about Dad jeans? You know the Dad look...tapered, faded, (are I say it ) sometimes pleated jeans? As if that isn't bad enough, then they pair those jeans with an old sweatshirt or unflattering sweater in some sort of neutral colour, tuck it in (ICK!), and throw on some old running shoes...maybe even a baseball hat? You know the look! Now, I'm not going to propose Dad should go all out "metro sexual", (the following info is for the more "mature" Dad) but there is a way to go from Drab Dad to Dazzling Dad without going over the top.

1) Replace the tapered/faded/baggy/pleated/highwaisted/old jeans with a more modern cut and colour. Think lower waisted (we're not talking hip huggers here, just not hiked up to your belly button) in a nice dark wash.

2) Guys, you know women always check them out, so why are you still wearing old sneakers and scuffed up shoes? You don't have to go all out with some pointy toed "metro" shoes to looks fashionable. A masculine but cool pair of desert boots, boat shoes (very popular this season by the way), or nice leather flip flops.

3) Ditch the dull and worn out t-shirts and sweaters and lighten up with a simple button down shirt, or t-shirt and sweater combo in some fun colours. Again, we're not talking all out "metro" and trading in the brown sweater for a lime green golf shirt. Start small. Why not try a green and white pin striped button down, or a camel sweater with a deep purple or blue t-shirt underneath? Have a bit of fun with fashion, that's what it's there for.

Tie one on

It can make or break a suit. That’s why whether you are shopping for a tie for your guy, or you’re the guy shopping for a tie for yourself, it’s vital you know what to look for. To simplify things, the best ties are:

1. Silk
2. Hand sewn
3. Fully lined

Now that you know what to look for, you might want to go test your tie know-how at Harry Rosen. It’s the perfect time. Quality names like Ferragamo, BOSS, and Canali are more than 50% off right now!

Mix It Up

Once upon a time, there was a story about the dangers of mixing prints. Some would say, “You can’t mix flowers with stripes”, or “Argyle doesn’t go with polka dots.” Well, like all of the other fables, the idea that you can’t mix prints is a tale of the past. In fact, doing so is very current and looks super chic (for men and women), as long as it’s done the right way. There is a trick to it though…

The best way to mix prints is to make sure they are in the same colour family, and of the same intensity. An example (pictured above) for guys would be a black and white striped button down shirt paired with an argyle sweater vest that also has black and white in it. For women, an example would be a floral print skirt in soft pinks, blues, and yellows on a white background, paired with a fitted pink and white striped cardigan. A great way to go for a classic look with a twist!

“I Do”…promise to dress appropriately for a wedding

As an Image Coach, I have been asked many times, “As a guest at a wedding, what is and is not okay to wear?”

It seems these days, people are getting more and more casual at weddings. And personally, I think it’s disrespectful to the happy couple. This is their BIG day…so you could at least take the time to put some effort into your attire.

So, how do you know what is and is not appropriate? Well, that depends on the type of wedding. Hint…the invitation will usually give you a clue about the dress code.

Is it a formal ball-like event? At a country club? A destination wedding? In someone’s backyard? The location will give away what type of attire to wear, but there are some other basic rules to follow no matter what the venue.

1) NEVER wear white. I don’t care how casual the fabric or cut, white is reserved for the bride. Seriously, there are so many other colours to choose from!

2) Yes, I know there will be a party and some dancing later on, but save the overtly sexy for the clubs. Sure, you can go shorter in length, form fitting, a little cleavage, spaghetti straps, and even strapless. Just not all at once.

3) And guys, NEVER wear jeans. I know they may have cost you more than a suit, but it does not matter…it’s just disrespectful and sloppy.

4) For women attending a daytime wedding, go for a knee length cotton or jersey dress in a seasonal colour or pattern, or a skirt with a blouse or tank. Add some colourful heels and you’re ready to go! If the wedding is in the evening you can do the same, just choose a more refined fabric and darker colours. If you’re not into baring your legs, pants are okay, just dress them up with a fun and feminine top. And the later in the day the wedding, the more accessories you can get away with.

5) For men, khaki’s and a button down (with or without a tie) seem to be the uniform of choice at weddings, which is still okay. If you want to dress it up a bit though, try a light coloured casual suit (like linen). For an evening wedding, a more formal suit with a tie is your best bet.

Remember, just because “all eyes should be on the bride”, it does not give you an excuse for not putting in an effort to look your best!

This ones for the boys!!!

Did you guys think I forgot about you? NEVER! So, let’s get to it…

One of the big trends for men this year is the classic all American look…which I love! What’s hot now is plain and simple cool guy style. If you don’t know what that means, just think distressed, layers, earth tones, and punches of colour.

So, here goes...

From top to bottom, The Practical Fashionista’s favourite trends for men for this Fall/Winter season, all in one outfit!

- The Plaid Shirt layered under a cashmere v-neck sweater. Go for a bright plaid, with a more neutral coloured sweater.

- When the temp really starts to drop, cover up with a pea coat. A classic style that is both relaxed and sexy at the same time, the wool pea coat was all over the runways this year.

- When it comes to denim, don’t over think it guys. Skinny jeans may be cool for the uber- trendy, but chicks still prefer their guys in a relaxed boot cut.

- And last but not least, because you KNOW we girls always check them out…THE SHOES! With the aforementioned outfit, a pair of converse would look awesome, but if you wanted to dress it up a bit more, try a suede desert boot. Yep, the desert boot is back in style!

So, there you have it! Just a couple of Fall 2009 style tips for men.
A mix of masculine, preppy, and relaxed…with a stylish twist. HOT! Personally, I’m hoping this means the Metrosexual look is on its way out.